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In November of 1999 I went on a three week vacation by car to visit sites in the Texas Pan Handle, Nebraska, South Dakota, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah and Arizona. It was quite a trip. I thought I was ready to come home after three weeks. But as soon as I got home, I wanted to go out there again. To the Black Hills. To Rocky Mountain National Park. To Arches, Canyonlands, Grand Staircase of the Escalante and the rest of Utah that I didn't see. And to Antalope Canyon outside of Page, Arizona where I finally ran out of film.
I had to skip so many sites due to time and time of year. Mesa Verde National Park closed the Cliff Palace ruins for winter on November 7. I left Austin on November 3. I could not make it in time and would have had to change my route drasticly. Next time. Frank Lloyd Wright's Taliesen West was just a hundred or so miles away from my path through Arizona. Next time. I forgot about Four Points until I was half way through New Mexico; d'oh! Next time. I wanted to spend a couple nights under the stars off the Escalante river in Utah; one of the most remote places in the US. The Miata is not exactly suited for off road driving. Next time.
During the trip I managed to go through 12 rolls of film. Twenty-four exposures each. Two hundred, eighty-eight photos. I've lost the recipt since then, but it was more than one hundred dollars in developing costs. Double prints; I'm not sure why I did that. And now I have a scanner and a web site. Beware!
Vacation :: Big Hole in the Ground I
date: November 3, 1999
The first rule of this trip; have fun seeing the country. Number two; don't get any speeding tickets. The Miata was fueled up and packed to the gills with clothes, camping equipment, food and drinks, tools and new front brake pads. For the first day all I wanted to do was get to Palo Duro Canyon just south of Amarillo, Texas. I had heard of Palo Duro years before when the construction company I was part of tried to win a building contract up there. The company sales manager, Thomas "Tinker" McKnight told me stories about going to Palo Duro when he was a kid. How he and his brothers played around in the canyon. How you can drive down into the canyon. How the brilliant red color of the rock stuck in his mind.
It was getting dark as I got close to the 1062 exit off of 27. I wanted to get there before sunset not only to be able to see and enjoy it, but also so I would be able to see what I was doing while putting up my tent. Farm to nothing road 1062 goes thirteen miles east of 27 across flat ranch land to the entrance of Palo Duro Canyon State Park. It was so flat I could even see Amarillo's skyline. Then suddenly on the other side of the road the earth dropped away into a deep narrow ravine. A second deep ravine snaked in to meet the first and they continued on to the south. I was less than a mile away from the entrance gate of the park. Inside the park the road started to bend and twist over slight rolling hills along the edge of the canyon. I stopped at a look out point along the way. The colors were cool; just like Tinker had described.

In the morning I hiked up to the top of a ridge to catch the sunrise. It was neat to watch the colors of the canyon develop in the ever brighter light. As the sun started beaming in over the edge of the canyon I heard a pack of coyotes start to howl further down the canyon. I laughed as one would howl brilliantly, and the rest would yelp in chorus. This was nature. Then I heard another pack of coyotes chime in on the other side of me. Ok, time to go.
Vacation :: Out of Texas
date: November 4, 1999
This day was just for travel. Finally get out of Texas, bolt across Oklahoma and Kansas and make my reservations in Ogallala, Nebraska. Two things about this day. I never knew when I was in Oklahoma. One sign said Texas. The next said Kansas. And Kansas needs to have its statehood revoked and be reverted back to a territory. There is nothing out there. Nothing. No wonder they make the best murderers.
Vacation :: Carhenge
date: November 5, 1999
Busy day. Head out of Ogallala early and get stuck behind farm trucks driving twenty miles an hour below the speed limit. Third gear, 4000 rpms, then pass. Then there were the old gas pumps with the rotating numbers. I haven't seen one of those in about a decade. By noon I was in Alliance, Nebraska. Alliance is home of Carhenge. I can't seem to find my info on it, but from what I remember, it was built by a local engineer on a corner of the family lands. He had spent some time in England and studied Stonehenge extensively. Carhenge was a reproduction using cars instead of stones. The cars are all about the same size as the original stones and are laid out in the same manner as the stones are now.

Back on the road and heading out of Nebraska at this point. Like Kansas there is a lot of nothing out here, but Nebraska's nothing is much prettier. I kept imagining what it must have been like to travel across this country in a covered wagon. Or to be one of the first Anglo explorers out here. Now that would be my kind of trip. Have you ever noticed that when you are daydreaming while driving things kind of fly by with out even being noticed? Like that Nebraska highway patrol car. He must have been in a neighborly mood. He read my Texas plates and let me go. Thanks.
Vacation :: Black Hills
date: November 6-7, 1999
Highway 385 heads out of Nebraska and strait to the Black Hills of South Dakota. The area where you can find Crazy Horse, Mount Rushmore, Wind Cave, Driftwood and Sturgis. Nearby is The Badlands and Devils Tower. It was tough trying to see as many sights as possible and enjoy the atmosphere of the place. One of the best parts of the area though is its roads. Cutting through the Black Hills are a bunch of fun twisty roads. And you don't really have to blast down them the enjoy them. Highway 16 is about the best. It cuts though granite tunnels at three locations, all of which face Mount Rushmore.

As much as I enjoyed the driving, I wish I had more time to do some hiking, especially in the northern part of Custer State Park. I've got to go back.
Vacation :: Ugly Orange Cloud
date: November 8-13, 1999
The next week I spent in Denver with my friend Aimee. I visited, checked out the Colorado School of Mines, drove around, did some rock climbing, and changed out the front brakes on the Miata. There were so many things to see and experience in the Denver area that it was hard to choose what to do. The Denver Museum of Art was having an exhibit of expressionist paintings. That was cool, the rest of the museum sucked. Downtown Denver was ok. Tabletop was cool looking, but why would I want to look and the Denver skyline? Whenever I drove up above Golden and looked back over towards Denver there was the ugly orange cloud. Some sort of inversion thing holds all the smog from daily driving in Denver in a nasty looking cloud over the city.

So then there were all the things near Denver that I wanted to see. Royal Gorge was really cool but scared the crap out of me. I am deathly scared of heights. And there was Pikes Peak. Driving up that was cool and really made me want to become a rally driver. The Miata wasn't crazy about the thin air at the peak but it soldiered on. There was Rocky Mountain National Park and that awesome road twisting up a mountain outside Breckenridge. With the top down all the scenery was great. That is, until I was going through town and saw a bank sign with the temperature at 43 degrees. Suddenly, I was cold.
Vacation :: Cool Orange Rocks!
date: November 14-17, 1999
After a week with Aimee it was time to be alone again. I bolted across Colorado on 70 towards Utah. Interstate 70 running along the Colorado River was a fun drive. I appreciated the radar signs that told me how fast I was going. It helped me concentrate on my driving by not having to look down at the speedometer. "Hmm, only 86mph? I can go much faster on this tight twisty canyon highway. Thanks."

I got to Moab by early evening and was able to enjoy a nice dinner at the Moab Brewery. The next day was out on the slickrock of Arches National Park. All that gorgeous rock. I was just dieing to start climbing, but since I was alone and didn't have room in the Miata for even my climbing shoes, I stayed on the ground. Rats! Also the guides said the Miata didn't have the clearance for the off road trails that I wanted to check out. Double rats!! And I didn't bring my mountain bike to ride all the great slickrock trails in the area. Triple rats!!!
I've got to go back.
Vacation :: Big Hole in the Ground II
date: November 18, 1999

I saw the Grand Canyon. I wasn't impressed. Maybe if I saw it from the river it would be different.
Next time.
Vacation :: Welcome Back from the Texas Highway Patrol
date: November 19-20, 1999
I was running out of vacation time fast and there were still too many things I wanted to see. But I had to get back by Wednesday so I started back to Texas. I have never been so glad to see El Paso. Traveling along interstate 20 in west Texas can understand how some people say that there is nothing to see in Texas. If their only view is from the highway then they're right. Except for the long views and lonely ranch land, yeah there's nothing. You just have to appreciate it I guess.
Those long views can be breathtaking. They can also glaze you over so to stay alert I started identifying the make of all tractor trailers I saw. At first it was a little difficult distinguishing a Freightliner from a Peterbuilt, but after a while I got pretty good. I was really getting into it and when I came upon a rest stop where interstates 20 and 10 split. I was scanning all the trucks in that rest stop as I flew by. Then I looked back toward the road. I was doing about 80 and the Texas DPS trooper was already driving across the median toward me. Crap.
I had the top down as I rolled to a stop alongside the road. The trooper could see all my camping gear in the seat next to me. He asked me where I was heading. I told him I was coming back from a three week vacation. He looked at my license and saw I was from Austin.
"You live in Austin?", he asked.
"Yes."
"What do you do there?"
"I work for Motorola."
"Where at, Oak Hill or Ed Bluestien?"
This was not a question I would have expected from a state trooper in the middle of west Texas. My startled look must have given him reason to explain his knowledge of Motorola locations in Austin. Apparently he went to UT Austin and worked at Motorola to pay for school. He asked me if I knew a couple people he used to know there and then he said, "Have a safe trip back to Austin." And he walked back to his car and drove off.
Cool! No ticket! I've got to go on a vacation like this again.
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